fbpx

Jerry Schappert

I’d say most people think of bears when they think of a creature hibernating for the winter. We picture the momma bear in a cave somewhere sleeping the cold winter months away all warm and cozy & her body living off of the fat stored up from a summer time of gorging herself on berries and honey she’s stolen from any unearthed bees nests. Oh how I wish I were a bear at times.

Insects however are cold blooded and can’t generate heat but we know that they disappear (for the most part) in the cold winter months only to find them in the spring ready for another season. So how do they do it?

First, not all insects survive the same way; Bees stay semi active and heat is produced from the honey in their hive as it oxidizes. Monarch butterflies migrate to escape the cold and others may survive in one of the many stages of development either as an egg, pupae or larva.

The most intriguing way are the insects that produce an ‘anti freeze’ in their bodies to keep from succumbing to the cold. Although complicated it is basically glycerol produced by the bug that allows it to survive the long cold winter months.

over-wintering bug pestcemetery.com

glycerol |ˈglisəˌrôl; -ˌräl|
noun
a colorless, sweet, viscous liquid formed as a byproduct in soap manufacture. It is used as an emollient and laxative, and for making explosives and antifreeze. • A trihydric alcohol; chem. formula: CH 2 (OH)CH(OH)CH 2 (OH).

As best I can tell this chemical is produced seasonally perhaps triggered by the colder temperatures and is not a conscious choice. Warmer weather triggers the insects normal functions to kick back in and although it may take some time the bug returns to normal ready to do what bugs do. This survival technique is not always fool proof however and fluctuating temperatures may trick the insects body to come out of this state to soon. Once the freezing temps return it may not be able to produce the glycerol again or in time and it may die. Even with this chemical protection these insects still will find protected places in which to hide as further insurance of their survival. This is why so many times you will find insects in your home alive in the dead of winter either brought in with the firewood or woken up by the heat produced from your furnace. The term for this characteristic of insects is called ‘over-wintering’ and it’s just one of the many fascinating aspects of a bugs life.

When we think of walking sticks hardly anyone imagines a 6 inch black with yellow striped monster that almost always has a pint sized replica on its back. From Florida to Texas and as far north as South Carolina people want to know. What’s that bug? Here’s a look at the Two stripped walking stick (Anisomorpha buprestoides).

Other names it is known by are devil’s riding horse, prairie alligator, stick bug, witch’s horse, devil’s darning needle, scorpion, spitting devils and musk mare. That’s a lot of names for just one bug and I can only imagine what prompted so many. Its true name is rather boring but descriptive and that is the two striped walking stick. Once you’ve seen one your curiosity is peeked and walking stick is the farthest thing from your mind. Search engines aren’t much help unless you put” walking stick” in the search bar and some of the other names might bring you to some pretty risqué web sites. Not good for the 8th grader trying to do a report for school.

Spitting devils are black and have two stripes that go the length of their bodies. They get this nick name from their ability to ‘spit’ a white irritating substance at any creature that gets to close. Their aim is excellent up to a foot away and it has been observed to ward off attacking ants, birds or kids with sticks who are poking at them. The spray can be excruciatingly painful if it gets in your eyes and it may take several days for the effects to wear off. On the skin however the reaction is much milder but just as long as she gets her point across its mission accomplished.

Almost every time you see one you will see the much smaller male who ‘piggybacks’ on the female at all times. If they should fall and get separated the male will quickly scurry to find his place again. The hardy pair seems oblivious to liquid insect sprays but products such as Raid or insecticidal aerosols can knock them down pretty quickly.

Contrary to common beliefs the walking stick is a plant eater and the two stripped walking stick
is no different. The main defense of the traditional walking stick is its disguise; it looks like a stick when still. The ugly spitting devil however doesn’t resemble any stick and perhaps that’s why Mother Nature equipped her with the irritating ooze.

Spitting devils are not considered a pest per se (that is unless you get squirted in the eye by her) so no real pest control treatments are necessary. There are times when you may find several of them hanging out on an exterior wall of your home and a simple relocation of the bug using a broom or shovel will do. If you do need to move one or spray for some reason, don’t get to close, you’re liable to irritate it and get sprayed at. This may cause you to invent a new name for this bug and do we really need that?

In my little company we use a lot of different products but the growing majority seems to be synthetic pyrethroids. Professional pest control is not alone in this. In fact, if you look under any household sink or on the garage shelf, you’d find synthetic pyrethroids make up the lions share of insecticides used in American households. The list of pyrethroid based products is over 600 and growing all the time. It can be utilized in several different forms as well. Many granules, foggers, concentrates, sprays and aerosols have this man made version of pyrethrins (an “organic” insecticide made mostly from chrysanthemum flowers from Kenya) and for the most part they are considered safer than products in the past (DDT,chlordane & organophosphates in general). But as with ANY pesticide, natural or not, the word “safe” is something that cannot be categorically used since we’ve got that dastardly little word ending, “cide.”

cat hospital https://pestcemetery.com/

Still, one of the many advantages of synthetic pyrethroids is that it is considered less of a threat to vertebrates because they (vertbrates) have better metabolism, higher body temperatures and different ion channel structures than insects. So while synthetic pyrethroids are quite deadly on a bugs nervous system,,,, on mankind and the like, not so much. Well at least for most vertebrates. Fish and birds can have problems and that list doesn’t include cats either. Apparently cats do not have glucuronidase which serves in hepatic detoxifying metabolism pathways, and just as apparent, that ain’t good. Who knew?

Still, there is one side effect of synthetic pyrethroids that I think affects quite a number of PCO’s and DIYer pest controllers alike. (they’re in the vertebrates category) This condition is called Skin Parasthesia and while not life threatening, it does serve as a good reminder that we’re dealing with substances that don’t always have our best interest in mind, especially if we get careless.

How I Suffered From Pyrethroid Skin Parasthesia

I usually make a chemical run once per month if you don’t count the ‘quick stops’ to pick up items that we suddenly need like a specialty lure or a broken part to a sprayer etc. I try to get things in advance and buy by the case or in bulk where I can so I always have a ready supply. So this means I also do the inventory of our products, stocking shelves, cleaning etc. etc. (so great to be the boss)

Now we use a lot of granules in our pest control treatments. Almost every home or business gets a barrier placed with each regular visit. The granules we use, (synthetic pyrethroids) come from the distributor in 25 pound bags. How we place the granules in our service is we use shakers that hold only a few pounds. So we need to refill quite often. So rather than trying to fill these shakers straight from the bags which is clumsy and wasteful. I decided to label a barrel so I could pour several bags in and just use a scooper. So much easier and far less mess and waste.

The bad part is, this is when I am afflicted with pyrethroid parasthesia. You see to pour the bags I have to sort of bend over the top of the barrel as the contents go in. Although I try to be slow and methodical, a synthetic pyrethroid dust cloud billows out of the barrel & I am exposed. Within minutes I begin to feel the effects & for the next few hours I have a burning reminder that I need to be more careful.

They say that synthetic parasthesia is a paralyzing of sorts (just to the nerves) to a localized area and that this causes tingling and a burning sensation that can last as long as 48 hours. There can be different degrees of severity but it’s generally not thought to be life threatening or cause long term problems. For me, it’s only around my mouth and nose and no where else. The tingling doesn’t hurt per se, but it’s annoying and usually intensifies if I rinse with water. Luckily for me, it only seems to last a few hours.

We Still Need To Think Safety

It’s odd but I never even get an inkling of parasthesia when I apply the granules or use any other synthetic pyrethroid in any form, even if I do get some on some open skin. I’m pretty sure it’s the “dust” that gets me but who knows. Even if it is in smaller doses during the course of the day and I don’t feel it– I am still at risk of exposure. Just because it’s not a dust cloud doesn’t make it safe and besides, if I do 15 houses in a day that’s 15 times i’ve put myself in that situation. Does that equal one barrel episode? I don’t know to be truthful, but I really don’t care to find out using my body or my clients as the test dummy.

Cause you know, I don’t feel anything, I don’t spray into the wind, I know how to handle this stuff and hey I do this everyday & look!!!! I’m just fine!!! So maybe I can get away without my gloves, maybe I don’t really need that mask, besides I’m in a hurry and I’ve got 7 more stops to make.

I guess sometimes I am actually lulled into a false sense of security and I feel I can actually let my guard down when it comes to safety but now when I fill barrels….Mama Didn't Raise No Fool

Mama Didn’t Raise No Fool

Just being honest & I think it happens to more people than want to admit it.

Wheel bug

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Arthropoda

Class: Insecta

Order: Hemiptera

Family: Reduviidae

Assassin bugs are also known as Conenose, Kissing, and Wheel bugs. There are about 3000 different kinds of this insect. They vary widely in coloration, but are all fairly similar in shape. The Assassin bug as a group is mostly beneficial, feeding on insects such as mosquitos, flies and caterpillars, or other harmful pests. Injecting a toxin that quickly paralyzes its prey is how it got its name. This insect is aggressive, and will readily attack a perceived foe larger than itself. When left alone, they are a benefit, but certain kinds of Assassin bugs (known as the Conenose or Kissing bug) feed on the blood of vertebrates, which often includes humans. It is this type of Assassin bug that is considered a pest, and if bitten, you can experience a very painful ordeal. Conenose bugs are known for biting at night when their prey are asleep, and have the habit of biting around the mouth (thus the Kissing bug name). The welts are quite pronounced. Homes that are drafty, such as older log cabins, are often easy for this large bug to enter, They can be found in cracks or gaps, and around sinks. Diseases like Chagas are transmitted from the bites, putting these bugs in the pest category.

How They Travel

This insect is able to fly, and very good at climbing. Some species are attracted to lights, and easily find their way into

Cone nose

homes via open doors. They are common in both North and South America. Different varieties can be found worldwide. 

How Best to Identify Assassin Bugs

The Assassin bug takes on a variety of colors and markings, but most are menacing in appearance. Noted for their beak-like proboscis and prominent eyes, Assassin bugs are insects with 6 legs, a head, thorax, and abdomen. With their wings folded over their backs, the colors often make very distinctive markings, such as X’s or outlines that contrast with their usually dull body color. Life stages take one year to complete with five molts. Nymphs resemble the adults, and need blood meals to advance to the next molt. There is one generation per year, and single eggs are often laid in cracks and crevices.

Treatment and Elimination

Cone nose

Exterior spraying for Assassin bugs can be quite difficult. Treatment around doors, windows, and light sources will be the most effective. At times, a power spray of the surrounding grounds and shrubbery may be needed should populations build up. Bifen I/T will work for this type of exterior work. Dusting gaps, cracks, and other entry points is key to stop those bugs trying to enter in, or females who are in search of a place to lay their eggs. DeltaDust, Drione, DE (diatomaceous earth), or Boric acid should do nicely. This insect is commonly found in crawl spaces coming up through loose flooring or plumbing gaps, so attention should be paid in this section of any home up off the ground. Since this bug is rather large in size, you should at least attempt to seal up as many entry points as possible with caulks, tightening screens, door sweeps, or other necessary methods. Reduced lighting can be very beneficial. Interior sprays using Tempo, Demand CS, or Suspend SC, as well as other labeled products, will aid in control. Treating care around sinks, plumbing, or other interior access points with the aforementioned products will also be beneficial.

Fleas are one of the smallest insects, but they can be the biggest pest problem anyone encounters. Difficult to get rid of, expensive and labor intensive, flea control can be the most time-consuming pest extermination project you could be swamped with. Not only are fleas difficult to kill with pest control treatments, but they can also withstand great pressure when being squeezed. Females are quite prolific and the pupal stage may lie in wait for up to a year for the right conditions and trigger its emergence. These two factors alone present a major challenge in flea eradication.

It is estimated that a flea population is around 50 percent eggs, 45 percent larvae  and only 5 percent adults. Fleas can live and thrive in any area where a host can go, including but not limited to: Nests in trees, attics, lawns, homes, cars, RV’s, high-rise dwellings, boats, crawl spaces, caves, hotels, wall voids, etc. As you might imagine, a thorough understanding of the flea habits and lifecycle will be crucial to aid you in success. 

Throughout history, fleas have developed a fearsome reputation. It is worth noting fleas contributed to the spread of the Black Plague, which is a disease that almost killed off the entire European continent. People often think rats were directly responsible for spreading the disease to humans, but it was actually the fleas that fed off the plague-carrying rats. These Fleas would then bite people and spread the pathogen to them. There are over 2,400 different kinds of fleas worldwide! The most common fleas a homeowner has to deal with are the CatDogSticktight, and Northern Rat flea. Fleas have a complete life cycle meaning they go from egg to larva to pupa, and then adult. Each stage of flea has different preferences or tendencies for location, and far too often this is where treatment efforts are stifled. 

Egg

The number of eggs laid depends on species, with batch sizes ranging from two to several dozen and lifetime numbers ranging from around one hundred to several thousand. Considering the relatively short lifespan of the adult, this is quite a number. In some species, the flea lives almost exclusively in the nest or burrow and the eggs are deposited there,  but in others, the eggs are laid on the host itself but easily fall off onto the ground. Because of this, areas where the host rests and sleeps is an area to always check for the presence of flea eggs and larva. A single adult can lay between 40 and 50 in a single day and the eggs can hatch anywhere from two days to two weeks. 

Larva

Flea larvae develop through three stages of varying duration, where they take the form of first, second, and third instars.  At each respective stage, the larvae are referred to as first, second, or third instars. To clarify, the stages are called stages, and the physical larval forms are called instars. Flea larvae have chewing mouthparts and feed on any available organic material such as dead insects, adult flea feces, non viable flea eggs, and vegetable matter. It was long thought that the blood in the adult feces or at the base of fallen host hairs were the main ingredient in larva development but studies show that blood-only diets allow only 12% of larvae to mature, whereas a varied diet allowed almost all to develop. Consumption of non viable flea eggs took that number to 90%. They are blind and avoid sunlight, keeping to dark, humid places such as sand or soil, cracks and crevices, under carpets and in bedding. They will move to these areas in a home by wriggling towards the darkened area and a technician would be wise to lift rugs, move furnishings and have a bright flashlight in order to provide the most complete inspection and treatment.

Pupa

When the larva is ready it weaves a silken cocoon to pupate. Once inside the cocoon, the larva molts for a final time and undergoes metamorphosis into the adult form. This can be completed in as little as a week or take many months if conditions are not favorable. The pre emergent adult will wait inside until conditions are right and or certain “triggers” will cause it to emerge. These triggers include, vibrations, heat or increased carbon dioxide, all indicating a suitable host is present. With these factors in mind it’s easy to see why people returning from vacations or vacant homes that suddenly have activity can have a mass emergence and cause such a dramatic, seemingly out of nowhere infestation.

Adult

As mentioned above the adults you see feel and itch from represent a much smaller number of the fleas you actually are dealing with. It is strongly advised that you take steps and use products such as Igr’s to take on the entire population. The adult flea lives only a few short months (longer under ideal conditions) but without a host may die within days. Optimum temperatures for the flea’s life cycle are 70 °F to 85 °F and optimum humidity is 70%. Newly emerged fleas are quite aggressive and homeowners and pets can feel besieged by the sudden attack.